How to make a gotcha.....

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screamendrag
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How to make a gotcha.....

Post by screamendrag »

Hows it goin, im new here, and hoped i could share with you one of my most recent projects. Well it seems the gotcha is one of the more easily looseable lures, because of the species targeted with them. So I figured I could make one pretty easy. Had some walnut on hand and some led. I made a mold for the jigs head with two different bits, one the diam. of the head, and one the diam. of the neck that fits into the plug body. The body is a small lathed piece of walnut, with some groves and then it was bored out to fit the head, and to accomidate the tail hook.

Image
Image
Image
Sorry for the pics theyre from a cell phone. In the last pic you can see the jig head i poured, and the body i lathed. I think it came out pretty good. Gotta refine some stuff. In all makeing the molds and lathing it took me about a half hour.....i think i will make a batch of them if i have some time tomorrow or whenever after i test this bad boyImage

-Jeff

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BoatlessFisherman
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Post by BoatlessFisherman »

Cool,
-Tommy A-

click, click, click, Fish ON - Over, Under, Over, Under Get out of my Way. Sound familiar.

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Cookinman
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Post by Cookinman »

Man, that is great ! I fish and loose Gotchas all week long!


That is great! Far beyond my skill lever but great non the less. Lemme know how it swims!
TEAM 'COOKIN' :
:chef: "Still building 'em one BAITCATCHER at a time " :chef:

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phillybass71
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Post by phillybass71 »

cool away the mac's won't rob your wallet :D :D :D
Plz put back the small ones.

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screamendrag
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Post by screamendrag »

The paint didnt go so well. With the dark wallnut the mettalic paint i put on came out dark, some sparkles fixed that though :D Ill have to try it either with lighter wood, or ill turn some acrylic or pvc, which would be nice. Im going to myrtle beach this weekend so ill try it out.

Im thinkin about maken a bunch and just bringen them to the pier. If I were to sell them for like 2 bucks a piece do u think the pier would give me any problems?


-Jeff

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phillybass71
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Post by phillybass71 »

I'll take a couple if the work :D :D
Plz put back the small ones.

PBFisher
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Post by PBFisher »

What are they good for? How do you work them? Why do you loose so many?

gotants?
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Post by gotants? »

linesider wrote:couple coats of primer might help thae paint stay its color..
Toss a couple to the attendent for free and m sure he wouldnt have a problem with it..
I agree on the primer. Maybe wrap the hooks in tape and dip the lure in the primer, then dip in chrome, and then dip the tip in flourescent yellow or orange. Be sure to allow drying in between dips.
Fishing is ZEN

Catching is incidental

The sea, my church

gotants?
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Post by gotants? »

PBFisher wrote:What are they good for? How do you work them? Why do you loose so many?
Dude, read a few posts up...

"cool away the mac's won't rob your wallet "
Fishing is ZEN

Catching is incidental

The sea, my church

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BoatlessFisherman
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Post by BoatlessFisherman »

PBFisher wrote:What are they good for? How do you work them? Why do you loose so many?
Spanish Macks and other aggresive fishys.

Method of use:
Steady retrieve with quick snaps or jerks, this achieves a sidewinder jig affect.

Speed of retrieve is depended apon what the fish are hitting that day

Another way is to retrieve and lift the rod tip every so often on the retrieve, this way they normally hit on the drop or lift.

My favorite way:
I like to allow to drop to bottom and crank fast and point rod tip down and jerk towards me with fast retrieve and jerks and than allow to fall again to bottom and do it again until I have retrieved it.

Fish caught with Gotchas:
Mackerel, Bluefish, Pompano, Snook, Snapper this is what I have caught on them, mainly Mackerel but have had all of those hit at some time or another.
-Tommy A-

click, click, click, Fish ON - Over, Under, Over, Under Get out of my Way. Sound familiar.

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screamendrag
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Post by screamendrag »

Well the wood really doesnt handle the beating of a good days mac fishing well, so ill have to find an alternative..Though it is really cool to look at the battle scars after you fish.....gives the lure some mojo :D I really gotta go buy some acrylic to turn or just some stiff plastic tubing....cant seem to find it anywhere. Anyone ever see tubular plastic about this size sold anywhere? Ill have to look in micheals and ac moore this weekend....Im also gunna make a really long gotcha and maybe for fun a huge one :D The guys at the tire shop today looked at me funny when i took all their tire weights to make gotchas

Heres a pic of what ive done so far....
Image

some jig heads and another with a bodyImage


BTW-If i make a very large one like say 6 or 7 inches long and an inch in diam. would anything hit it....maybe a cobia or somethin?

Thanks
-Jeff

PBFisher
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Post by PBFisher »

Thanks at 3 for $10 it would be worth turning out an assembly line run of 50 or 100, but as cookingman said, "It´s out of my skill lever." Very interesting though. Tom thanks for responding. Has anybody taken off the treble hooks and replaced them with O´Shaunessys? I don´t like trebles.

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Cookinman
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Post by Cookinman »

linesider wrote:a jumbo one might get hit by big jacks or heck a big king..
Gotcha makes 2 oz versions that retail for about $3.00
TEAM 'COOKIN' :
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screamendrag
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Post by screamendrag »

I was thinking about the pipe idea, but i think that would kill the dynamics of the gotcha. Gotchas are basically a very light body with a very heavy head, so the key part of their action is the fast eratic fall, and the fast side to side up. I think with the heavier body it might kill the action some, though you never know it could improve the action....no way to really tell unless as linesider said, you try it :D

I am going to make one that larger.....maybe one with a white body and stripes for mullet, one with black back and dots for menhaden, and one that looks like a spanish.....I paint the striper lure i make kinda like this :D

As for the hooks on the big ones, they will probably either both be single, with a dressed hook on the rear, or one treble and single....dunno. Ill show u guys how they come out prolly by next weekend.

-Jeff

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Gotcha
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Post by Gotcha »

Did you try using PLASTIC LIKE the tubing in a BIC PEN even though it's a light plastic if you cut it down the middle you can get 2 .

gotants?
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Post by gotants? »

Check this place out for raw materials...

http://www.mcmaster.com/

If you`re turning the body lure on a lathe, you might want to consider another material other than tubing. I`ve used Cutting board material and cut it down to make hand pucks for brakes while downhill skateboarding. You could easily cut it into square rods and then mill it round.

Another option...

Here is a sample of hollow plastic rods..
View catalog pages (18) Plastics
829 products match your selections
Backing Plain Back
Shape Tubes

Tube Type


Round

Square

Rectangular

Length
3" | 6" | 12" | 18" | 21" | 24" | 26" | 36" | 39" | 40" | 42" | 48" | 5' | 6' | 8' | 10' | Cut-to-Length

Material — Material comparison chart
Acetal: These rigid materials have a slippery surface and withstand wear well. Common applications include valve components, gears, and bearings. Sample sheets are available.
Includes: Delrin
Acetal Copolymer



Acrylic: Use this material for sign and window applications. Has a smooth surface and can be used indoors or outdoors unless noted.
Includes: Extruded acrylic
Cast acrylic

Acrylic/PVC (Kydex T)



Carbon Fiber: A laminated composite of woven-glass fabric, carbon graphite fibers, and epoxy. Common applications for this material include use in structural applications.

Cellulose: Has good optical clarity and impact resistance. Common uses include shipping tubes, printing applications, and transparent overlays.
Includes: Acetate
Butyrate



Fiberglass: These materials have good tensile strength and good impact strength. Standard fiberglass is used for a wide variety of lightweight structural applications like handrails and platforms. Electrical grade fiberglass is excellent for electrical enclosures, electrical switch gears, transformers, and barriers.

Fluoropolymers: These materials are tough yet easy to machine. Fluoropolymers generally offer good weather resistance. Uses include wear strips, wire coatings, valves, and liners.
Includes: Teflon® PTFE
PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene)

ETFE (ethylene tetrafluoroethylene)
PFA (perfluoroalkoxy fluorocarbon)

CTFE (chlorotrifluoroethylene)
PVDF (Kynar)

ECTFE (Halar)
FEP (fluorinated ethylene-propylene)

Rulon®



Garolite: Choose from a multitude of grades to meet your particular application. Commonly called industrial laminates, phenolics, or thermosets, garolite plastics are lightweight compared to metals. Common applications include templates, tabletops, wear pads, and slides.

Nylon: For use in general purpose wear applications. This material has good tensile strength unless noted.
Includes: Nylon 6/6
Cast Nylon 6

Nylon 6/12
Kevlar/Nylon (Hydlar Z)



PEEK: Comparable to Vitrex, PEEK (polyetheretherketone) maintains its shape and offers greater tensile strength in a wider temperature range than PTFE.
Includes: Carbon-Filled PEEK
Glass-Filled PEEK



Polycarbonate: Has excellent clarity and impact strength over a wide temperature range. Can be used indoors and outdoors. Rated for flammability.
Includes: Abrasion-Resistant Polycarbonate
Static Dissipative Polycarbonate

Bullet-Resistant Polycarbonate
Glass-Filled Polycarbonate



Polyester: This material offers dimensional stability and good resistance to wear and chemicals.
Includes: PET (polyester)
PETG

PET film (Mylar)



Polyethylene: This group of plastics, a member of the polyolefin family, encompasses a wide variety of grades with a wide range of properties. Low-density polyethylene is commonly used in shrink wrap applications. High-density is often used in pipe, shipping pallets and truck bed liners.
Includes: LDPE (low density polyethylene)
UHMW (ultra high molecular weight)

HDPE (high density polyethylene)
VHMW (very high molecular weight)



PVC: With its good chemical and corrosion resistance, PVC (polyvinyl chloride) is the most widely used vinyl. It's often used for corrosion-resistant tanks, ducts, and fittings.
Includes: Type I
Type II

CPVC
Expanded Rigid PVC




Color: Many plastic colors vary depending upon the consistency of batches, the thickness of the piece, and the viewing conditions. Please use these listings as a general guide.
Opaque materials block the passage of light.
Translucent materials allow the passage of light, but not necessarily a clear view of what lies beyond.
Clear materials allow view of what lies beyond without obstruction or haziness.


Opaque
White
Gray
Green
Yellow-Brown-Green
Yellow-Green
Tan
Brown
Brownish-Green
Black
Clear
Clear with No Tint


Operating Temperature
Select the level of low and high temperature resistance that best approximates your need. Before purchasing a product, verify that the Operating Temperature Range is suitable for your application. These selections are meant only as a general guide.
Lowest Temperature
+0° to +60° F
-99° to -1° F
-199° to -100° F
-399° to -300° F
Not Rated
Highest Temperature
+100° to +200° F
+201° to +300° F
+301° to +400° F
+401° to +500° F


Performance Characteristic
High Tensile Strength
Superior ability to resist being torn apart. Generally withstands a pulling force greater than 10,000 psi. High Impact Strength
Greater ability to withstand forceful sudden impact (similar to hammer strike). Generally withstands 5 foot-pounds of energy per inch of thickness under normal conditions. Electrical Insulator
Effectively resists flow of electricity. Commonly used in housing or mounting of electrical components. Generally resists at least 500 volts per .001 in. of thickness. Flame Retardant
Contains additive that significantly reduces or retards tendency to burn.
Weather Resistant
Can be used indoors and outdoors. Generally withstands exposure to ultraviolet light, humidity, temperature, rain, snow, wind, and other elements. Very Low Friction
Allows objects to slide or roll easily, leading to higher efficiency, quieter performance, and less wear. Generally has a friction coefficient no greater than 0.2. Wash-Down Applications
Designed to be washed down regularly. Compliant with one or more of FDA, USDA, NSF, or 3A standards.

Tolerance
Standard: Material is manufactured to a nominal dimension according to commonly accepted tolerances. Example: 1/4" Diameter ±.002".

Ground: Material is ground to closer tolerances to the nominal dimension than standard. Example: 1/4" Diameter ±.001".


Specifications Met
3A Sanitary Standards (3A) Compliant | American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) | Food and Drug Administration (FDA) Compliant | Military Specifications (MIL) | National Sanitation Foundation (NSF) Compliant | Underwriters Laboratories (UL) | U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) Compliant | Not Rated
Fishing is ZEN

Catching is incidental

The sea, my church

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screamendrag
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Joined: Wed Feb 14, 2007 1:09 pm
Location: Boca

Post by screamendrag »

Gotcha- thats a great idea, i was thinking about that but i figured it wouldnt be efficient....but now that i think you can get a big pack of those for cheap, and at 2 per pen.....great idea....i gotta go pick up some pens now...i wonder if they come in a variety of colors :D Thanks gotcha

Gotants-thats a sweet website. I could make carbon fiber gotchas :D That would be a great way to do it too, cause some of those poly plastics are cheappp for alot :D

thanks,
Jeff

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