Save money... make your own weights.
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Permit53
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Save money... make your own weights.
I am tired of the high cost of sinkers and now make my own. I would buy molds, however I am cheap and can just make them for a lot less.
Items you will need are as follows
1. One gallon of bondo
2. mixing sticks
3. WD-40
4. cardboard box
5. Sinkers (eggs for this case)
6. two coat hangers
7. razor blade
8. dykes.
9. a way to heat and pour the lead.
First I took a trip to the local tackle shop to buy my last egg weights at a cost of 12.39 for 8 weights from the size of 8 - 1/4 oz. I then took two of my wife’s coat hangers. One was large in dia and one smaller, because the smaller egg weights have a smaller hole dia. Then I placed to weights to ensure they fit snug. Next I took the egg weights and placed them on top of the cardboard box to make sure everything would fit. I then cut lines down the box to so the coat hanger and weights would slide down the box for the first pour of bondo. You want to make sure that the weights are not too close to the bottom because you need to mold to be thick in order for the heat to disperse and for strength.
I then proceeded to mix up my bondo. Follow the directions on the can if you do not know how to mix it. I mixed my bondo with sticks and then a bondo spreader. I then sprayed the inside of the box with WD-40 along with the weights and coat hanger rod. Do not skimp of the WD-40. This will help to relieve the eggs and box from the bondo. Then I poured to bondo into the box without the weights in there yet. I took the box and slammed it on the work bench to allow the bubbles to rise up to the top and then poked them with a nail so I would not have pockets of air in the mold. I then "quickly" placed the weights in the mold with the hanger rod in place. Make sure you only place the weights in so that the bondo only covers half of the weight. Let the bondo begin to cure and harden and pluck out your weights from the mold. Also place the nails head side down with the weights before the bondo begins to cure. This will act like a dow pin when putting the mold back together.
After allowing the mold to set and come back down to room temp place the weights along with the hanger rods back into the mold. Spray WD-40 all over the mold once again along with the sides of the box. Use plenty let it get everywhere. Then mix up enough bondo to not only cover the weights, but allow at least 1/2 inch above the egg weights and again bang the mold on the table to allow all air bubbles to rise back up to the top and pop them with a nail. Allow the mold to then cool back down to room temp. This could take up to two hours and make sure not to rush the process.
After the mold has cooled you can tear off the cardboard box which should not be hard if you sprayed enough WD-40 on the mold. Once the box is off the fun part begins.... Time to separate the mold. This can take a while especially if you did not spray enough WD-40. I took a knife then began separating the mold.
Once the mold is separated you need to begin carving out a pouring funnel. I did this with a knife at first and then cleaned it up with a POS dermal from harbor freight. After you are finished carving out the mold you can then place the rods back into the mold without the weights attached and place the mold back together ensuring a snug fit. Once the mold is finished you can begin pouring your lead into the mold. BE CAREFUL… you need a well ventilated area, gloves, (I wear glasses), and a ladle if you don’t have a pouring machine. Also water will explode if it comes into contact with the molten led. Good luck and I hope this will help those out there that cannot stand the outrageous cost of led.
Items you will need are as follows
1. One gallon of bondo
2. mixing sticks
3. WD-40
4. cardboard box
5. Sinkers (eggs for this case)
6. two coat hangers
7. razor blade
8. dykes.
9. a way to heat and pour the lead.
First I took a trip to the local tackle shop to buy my last egg weights at a cost of 12.39 for 8 weights from the size of 8 - 1/4 oz. I then took two of my wife’s coat hangers. One was large in dia and one smaller, because the smaller egg weights have a smaller hole dia. Then I placed to weights to ensure they fit snug. Next I took the egg weights and placed them on top of the cardboard box to make sure everything would fit. I then cut lines down the box to so the coat hanger and weights would slide down the box for the first pour of bondo. You want to make sure that the weights are not too close to the bottom because you need to mold to be thick in order for the heat to disperse and for strength.
I then proceeded to mix up my bondo. Follow the directions on the can if you do not know how to mix it. I mixed my bondo with sticks and then a bondo spreader. I then sprayed the inside of the box with WD-40 along with the weights and coat hanger rod. Do not skimp of the WD-40. This will help to relieve the eggs and box from the bondo. Then I poured to bondo into the box without the weights in there yet. I took the box and slammed it on the work bench to allow the bubbles to rise up to the top and then poked them with a nail so I would not have pockets of air in the mold. I then "quickly" placed the weights in the mold with the hanger rod in place. Make sure you only place the weights in so that the bondo only covers half of the weight. Let the bondo begin to cure and harden and pluck out your weights from the mold. Also place the nails head side down with the weights before the bondo begins to cure. This will act like a dow pin when putting the mold back together.
After allowing the mold to set and come back down to room temp place the weights along with the hanger rods back into the mold. Spray WD-40 all over the mold once again along with the sides of the box. Use plenty let it get everywhere. Then mix up enough bondo to not only cover the weights, but allow at least 1/2 inch above the egg weights and again bang the mold on the table to allow all air bubbles to rise back up to the top and pop them with a nail. Allow the mold to then cool back down to room temp. This could take up to two hours and make sure not to rush the process.
After the mold has cooled you can tear off the cardboard box which should not be hard if you sprayed enough WD-40 on the mold. Once the box is off the fun part begins.... Time to separate the mold. This can take a while especially if you did not spray enough WD-40. I took a knife then began separating the mold.
Once the mold is separated you need to begin carving out a pouring funnel. I did this with a knife at first and then cleaned it up with a POS dermal from harbor freight. After you are finished carving out the mold you can then place the rods back into the mold without the weights attached and place the mold back together ensuring a snug fit. Once the mold is finished you can begin pouring your lead into the mold. BE CAREFUL… you need a well ventilated area, gloves, (I wear glasses), and a ladle if you don’t have a pouring machine. Also water will explode if it comes into contact with the molten led. Good luck and I hope this will help those out there that cannot stand the outrageous cost of led.
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snookabogus
Re: Save money... make your own weights.
I always wanted to start making my own weights but was worried about the lead poisoning.
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Re: Save money... make your own weights.
Not sure how much raw lead is going for these days, but you can get weights for about .10/ounce shipped from ebay. Much less hassle then pouring your own IMO.snookabuser wrote:I always wanted to start making my own weights but was worried about the lead poisoning.

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snookabogus
Re: Save money... make your own weights.
Yea i buy them pretty cheap from that guy on ebay. But i was also thinking in my spare time just bulk up on weights and sell em the same price as that guy just to make some profit.
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Re: Save money... make your own weights.
you should add a respirator to the items you will need.
mixing up a large amount of bondo can pack some serious fumes...
mixing up a large amount of bondo can pack some serious fumes...
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crashmister
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Re: Save money... make your own weights.
When you wake up one morning With a headache that lasts a week or so. You'll find out what a great idea this is. Seriously Be carefull and know what your doing with this stuff.
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Re: Save money... make your own weights.
It was a great how to's article though...reguardless of the hazards involved in casting with lead.crashmister wrote:When you wake up one morning With a headache that lasts a week or so. You'll find out what a great idea this is. Seriously Be carefull and know what your doing with this stuff.
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Permit53
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Re: Save money... make your own weights.
I know pouring led is not something to do without caution, but if there is plenty of ventilation, (I stay outside, with a fan blowing on the led pot away from me) then I see no harm. I am not doing this all of the time, and I feel as much as I handle led weights as it is I am already screwed. 
Fish like its the last cast you will ever make.
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Re: Save money... make your own weights.
LOLPermit53 wrote:I feel as much as I handle led weights as it is I am already screwed.
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Teafycritter
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Re: Save money... make your own weights.
I wear a fumes mask
anyways could i make a 8 pnd sword weight using that type of homemade mold?
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crashmister
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Re: Save money... make your own weights.
Problem is it takes your body months to get rid of the lead you absorb or injest through your lungs. Even if you only do it once a month your still building levels faster than your body can expel it. While I don't know for sure, I would imagine the Bondo gives off it's share of toxic gasses when the molten lead hit's it. Most plastics do. I know that burning plastics give off Phosgene gas. One good wif of which can and does cause death. I was lucky, I only poisoned myself. Thanks to an excelent ventilation system my family did not get exposed. I used to cast my own bullets and then scuba weights. A gas burner is the worst way to go. Yeah it's faster but it also put's more lead in the air your breathing. I was using an old lead pot I got from a plumber on a job. Molten lead gives off a soot that you really can't see. It settels on you and everything else. This is a big part of what you want to protect your self against. That means no exposed skin at all while your smelting lead. The electric smelters are far safer as they reach a controlled temp and stay there. Burners on the other hand can actually get so hot they boil lead. The burners flames cause a violent updraft. This in turn put's lead in the air. Without a resperator your breathing this into your lungs. If you take the time to find out the right way to do it and follow those directions you will be alot better off in the long run. Take it from me, lead poisoning is no fun. It takes months or even years to build up the levels in your body. It takes just as long if not longer to lower them. If your planing on having kids DON'T DO THIS!!!
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Re: Save money... make your own weights.
Teafycritter wrote:I wear a fumes maskanyways could i make a 8 pnd sword weight using that type of homemade mold?
i saw a guy ,he make them with concrete .
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Re: Save money... make your own weights.
Concrete is better for the reef but probably doesn't have the same weight as lead.permitchaser wrote:Teafycritter wrote:I wear a fumes maskanyways could i make a 8 pnd sword weight using that type of homemade mold?
i saw a guy ,he make them with concrete .
The Judge asked the prostitute, "At what point did you realize you were raped?"
The prostitute replied (wiping away tears), "When the check bounced."
The prostitute replied (wiping away tears), "When the check bounced."
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Permit53
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Re: Save money... make your own weights.
bolo i think he is talking about the molds
Fish like its the last cast you will ever make.
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Re: Save money... make your own weights.
bolo wrote:Concrete is better for the reef but probably doesn't have the same weight as lead.permitchaser wrote:Teafycritter wrote:I wear a fumes maskanyways could i make a 8 pnd sword weight using that type of homemade mold?
i saw a guy ,he make them with concrete .
he uses tube molds ,and they work he caught a nice sword ,if i do that fiching i will do them with concrete cheaper and safer for everybody.
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Re: Save money... make your own weights.
Swordfishing is different style of fish PC. You are comparing making a 5lb weight to a 4-8oz sinkers.permitchaser wrote: he uses tube molds ,and they work he caught a nice sword ,if i do that fiching i will do them with concrete cheaper and safer for everybody.
The Judge asked the prostitute, "At what point did you realize you were raped?"
The prostitute replied (wiping away tears), "When the check bounced."
The prostitute replied (wiping away tears), "When the check bounced."
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crashmister
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Re: Save money... make your own weights.
Bolos right. Concrete will be lighter by half at least. But you could do it fairly easy.
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Re: Save money... make your own weights.
I just said that.permitchaser wrote:it only work for big weights for Swords Bolo
The Judge asked the prostitute, "At what point did you realize you were raped?"
The prostitute replied (wiping away tears), "When the check bounced."
The prostitute replied (wiping away tears), "When the check bounced."
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Re: Save money... make your own weights.
bolo wrote:I just said that.permitchaser wrote:it only work for big weights for Swords Bolo
LOL dont you think i know by now it dont work for small weights ,i been fishing longer then you

